As a lash artist, whether you’re just starting out or have been in the industry for a while, you’re probably familiar with the many terms you’ll need to know to perfect your craft. Some of these terms can be a bit tricky and often get mixed up, which can sometimes lead to confusion when communicating with your clients.
A common area of confusion is the distinction between American volume vs. Russian volume lash extensions. Let’s explore the differences between these two volume techniques so you can better understand which style is best for your clients!
What are volume lash extensions?
Let’s talk about volume lashes—the ultimate game-changer for anyone who dreams of full, fabulous lashes. Unlike classic lash extensions, where it’s one extension per natural lash, volume lashes take things up a notch by adding two or more extensions to each of your natural lashes. The result? A lush, fuller look that feels like magic.
Volume lash extensions are categorized by numbers like 2D, 3D, 4D, 5D, and 6D, which indicate how many lashes are used in a fan applied to a single natural lash. For example, 2D means two synthetic lashes in a fan, 3D means three, and so on. The higher the “D,” the fuller the lash set will appear. Any fan over 6D is considered a Mega Volume set.
You can go light with 2D or 3D fans for a soft, fluttery vibe. Or, if you’re in the mood to make a bold statement, mega volume lashes (6D or more!) deliver that deep, dramatic lash line that’s impossible to ignore. Volume lashes truly offer something for everyone, from subtle elegance to all-out glam.
American volume vs. Russian volume: What’s the difference?
The difference between these two styles is all about the finish. Russian Volume gives you a precise, symmetrical lash line, ideal for formal occasions or anyone who loves a polished, put-together aesthetic. American Volume, on the other hand, is messier (in a good way!) with a more wispy, textured and spiky vibe. It’s perfect for those who want a trendy, carefree look that still makes an impact.
1. Russian volume lash extensions
Russian Volume lash extensions started in Russia and quickly became a global favorite! This technique involves creating beautiful, handcrafted fans made of 2–5 super-fine lash extensions. These fans are applied to individual natural lashes, giving you a full, dense lash line that’s perfectly neat and oh-so-elegant. The tips are perfectly aligned, creating a super clean, uniform look that lash artists call a “perfect topline.”
The extensions used for Russian volume lashes are ultra-lightweight (around 0.05–0.07mm), so they won’t weigh down your natural lashes. Plus, the way these lashes wrap around your natural lash often means better retention—lasting 4–6 weeks if you keep up with infills every 2–3 weeks.
Ideal for: Russian volume lash extensions are great for clients with sparse or delicate natural lashes since they’re lightweight and help minimize the risk of damage. If you’re looking for a stunning, dramatic look, these lashes are perfect for any occasion, whether it’s a special event or just everyday glam!
2. American volume lash extensions
Now, let’s talk about American Volume eyelash extensions. At first, it was called the Kim K or Kim Kardashian style, then it went by names like Wispy Volumes, or Spikey Volumes. These days, we’ve finally landed on the name “American Volume.” So, what makes American volume different from Russian volume lash extensions?
American Volume is all about wispy vibe with a slightly messy look. This technique uses fans of varying sizes and lengths to create layered and multidimensional effects. It’s all about volume, size, and texture.
It involves placing spikes (or closed fans) that extend beyond the main lash line, along with three or more different lengths, to achieve a soft, fluffy effect. This creates a more natural texture that blends seamlessly with the client’s existing lashes. The result is a fuller, yet softer appearance compared to other volume techniques, with the lashes appearing more staggered and wispy rather than uniform or heavy.
Ideal for: Clients who want a natural yet boosted look will love the subtle fullness of American Volume Lashes. It’s also a great choice for those with naturally full lashes who want to add extra texture and dimension.
Key differences
| Russian volume lash extensions | American Volume lash extensions | |
| Application technique | Involves creating fans of ultra-fine extensions in the same sizes and applying them to a single natural lash | Involves creating fans of ultra-fine extensions of different sizes and lengths |
| Outcome | Dense, more dramatic look with a perfectly aligned, uniform lash line for a symmetrical look | Natural yet full look with added texture and dimension |
| Texture | Smooth and uniform, creating a super dense lash line | Soft, textured and dimensional, with different lash lengths creating a more natural appearance. |
| Ideal For | Clients with naturally full lashes who want extra texture and volume | Clients with sparse lashes who want a dramatic, voluminous effect |
Our professional tips to create stunning volume lashes!
Achieving stunning lash extensions requires more than just skill—it’s about understanding the right techniques, choosing the perfect products, and mastering the art of lash mapping.
Russian volume lash extensions
For 2D-6D Russian volume lash extensions, Cashmere mink lashes in thicknesses ranging from 0.03 to 0.10 are recommended (depending on the number of lashes in the fan being applied). They are incredibly lightweight and soft, much thinner and lighter than natural lashes. This allows for the application of multiple synthetic lashes to a single natural lash without weighing it down.
American Volume lashes
For American Volume lashes, it’s a good idea to begin with a lash map. Mark the areas where you’ll place the spikes, using appropriate lengths. Ensure that the spikes are spaced evenly to create a balanced look, and keep the number of spikes between 7 and 10 strands to avoid overwhelming the lashes.
We recommend using Premade spike lashes to make the application process faster and easier.
Once the spikes are applied, it’s time to fill in the gaps! The volume lashes between the spikes should be 1-3 mm shorter. For example, if the spikes are between 9 to 12 mm, the volume fans should be between 7 to 11 mm.
Like with Russian volume lash extensions, it’s recommended to use lash thicknesses ranging from 0.03 to 0.10 for creating the fans.
Which one to choose?
Choosing between American vs. Russian volume lash extensions come down to your natural lash health, lifestyle and the vibe you’re going for. If you’re after a bold, glamorous look and have sparse natural lashes, Russian Volume could be just what you need. However, if you prefer a more natural appearance with extra fullness and texture, American Volume Lashes might be the perfect fit for you.
For lash artists, knowing both styles is a must! Each technique brings its own flair, and your clients will love having options tailored to their unique preferences.
No matter which style you pick, one thing’s for sure—volume lashes will give your eyes that wow factor and make you feel absolutely fabulous. So, what’s it going to be? Sleek and chic or fluffy and fun? The choice is all yours!
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Lash extension thickness: A comprehensive guide on volume lash size and weight
